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This is the official release of the BrickAR 5.0. Listed below are the new features:
1. Flattened the trigger guard to make for somewhat easier printing. Some people were having issues with the rear of the trigger guard curling up
and catching the print head if cooling wasn't ideal, this should help a lot with that issue.
2. some slight changes to the rear of the recesses for the safety selector to help with clearances.
3. This is the big one: Full compatibility with milspec takedown and pivot pins, including the detents and springs!!
There are now two different models, one for milspec pins, and one for use with clevis or quick release pins like in the 4.0 or earlier models.
The end of the file names will tell you which version is which. The proper size for the clevis or quick release pins is 1/4" x 2". You can also
cut some pieces of 1/4" rod to use as pins. You'll need one 40mm long for the front and another 45mm long for the rear. Depending on the rod you
buy, you may have to lightly sand the outside of it to get it to fit properly through the holes in the lugs of your upper.
I'm going to start offering some custom made takedown pins for the clevis model. These will be the 1/4" rod I described above, already cut to the
correct length, sanded and blued. If you would like to purchase a set (and help fund my development efforts), you can send $15 via PayPal to
matt.elder1971@live.com, along with a note saying that you want a set of pins. Be sure to include your shipping address, US residents only please!!!
I hope everyone likes these improvements. Below are my recommended print settings:
Printer: Any FDM printer with at least a 200x200mm bed and 100mm height. I print all of mine on a
Tronxy P802M, one of the cheapest printers you can get.
Print orientation: Exactly as it imports, with the bottom of the magwell and trigger guard flat on the bed.
DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT follow the old advice of printing at 45 degrees to the bed. This lower is specifically
designed to make the best possible use of the layer lines. Printing it at 45 degrees will actually make it
more susceptible to damage. The ONLY other good option is to flip it upside down and print with the front lugs
and the tip of the buffer tower touching the bed. This makes for a rougher top surface where it mates to the
upper, and makes cleanup of supports in the trigger pocket harder, but will give a much nicer bottom surface.
Layer height: .12 to .24. There's really no advantage to going lower, but you can go up to .3 if you
REALLY don't care about surface quality. It could also cause fitment issues.
Material: I develop and test with PLA or PLA+ in mind. Any stronger filament would work as well and probably result in an even stronger part.
My usual temperature is 215 head/60 bed, but use what works best for your printer and filament.
Supports: If you are usuing Cura, tree supports work well, but standard supports work good too. Either way, you only need supports touching the bed.
Post Processing: Drill all holes to the proper diameters. I've included a PDF with blueprints for an AR lower so you can get the correct sizes.
If you still have issues with pins or springs being too tight, go 1/64" over the spec, but no more. You can get a cheap set of drill bits at
Harbor Freight for about $15-20 that will includ all of the bits you need. I HIGHLY recommend getting a tap for the buffer tube threads. Yes, they
can be a bit expensive, but even a cheap one will work fine for cutting plastic. The cost is worth it in the end if you intend on making a lot of
AR lowers. The correct size for that is 1 3/16" x 16 TPI. You should also tap the grip screw hole. That is 1/4" x 28 TPI. You CAN simply thread the
grip screw into the plastic, but tapping is always preferred. All of these recommendations should apply to ANY printed lower, not just the BrickAR.
1. Flattened the trigger guard to make for somewhat easier printing. Some people were having issues with the rear of the trigger guard curling up
and catching the print head if cooling wasn't ideal, this should help a lot with that issue.
2. some slight changes to the rear of the recesses for the safety selector to help with clearances.
3. This is the big one: Full compatibility with milspec takedown and pivot pins, including the detents and springs!!
There are now two different models, one for milspec pins, and one for use with clevis or quick release pins like in the 4.0 or earlier models.
The end of the file names will tell you which version is which. The proper size for the clevis or quick release pins is 1/4" x 2". You can also
cut some pieces of 1/4" rod to use as pins. You'll need one 40mm long for the front and another 45mm long for the rear. Depending on the rod you
buy, you may have to lightly sand the outside of it to get it to fit properly through the holes in the lugs of your upper.
I'm going to start offering some custom made takedown pins for the clevis model. These will be the 1/4" rod I described above, already cut to the
correct length, sanded and blued. If you would like to purchase a set (and help fund my development efforts), you can send $15 via PayPal to
matt.elder1971@live.com, along with a note saying that you want a set of pins. Be sure to include your shipping address, US residents only please!!!
I hope everyone likes these improvements. Below are my recommended print settings:
Printer: Any FDM printer with at least a 200x200mm bed and 100mm height. I print all of mine on a
Tronxy P802M, one of the cheapest printers you can get.
Print orientation: Exactly as it imports, with the bottom of the magwell and trigger guard flat on the bed.
DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT follow the old advice of printing at 45 degrees to the bed. This lower is specifically
designed to make the best possible use of the layer lines. Printing it at 45 degrees will actually make it
more susceptible to damage. The ONLY other good option is to flip it upside down and print with the front lugs
and the tip of the buffer tower touching the bed. This makes for a rougher top surface where it mates to the
upper, and makes cleanup of supports in the trigger pocket harder, but will give a much nicer bottom surface.
Layer height: .12 to .24. There's really no advantage to going lower, but you can go up to .3 if you
REALLY don't care about surface quality. It could also cause fitment issues.
Material: I develop and test with PLA or PLA+ in mind. Any stronger filament would work as well and probably result in an even stronger part.
My usual temperature is 215 head/60 bed, but use what works best for your printer and filament.
Supports: If you are usuing Cura, tree supports work well, but standard supports work good too. Either way, you only need supports touching the bed.
Post Processing: Drill all holes to the proper diameters. I've included a PDF with blueprints for an AR lower so you can get the correct sizes.
If you still have issues with pins or springs being too tight, go 1/64" over the spec, but no more. You can get a cheap set of drill bits at
Harbor Freight for about $15-20 that will includ all of the bits you need. I HIGHLY recommend getting a tap for the buffer tube threads. Yes, they
can be a bit expensive, but even a cheap one will work fine for cutting plastic. The cost is worth it in the end if you intend on making a lot of
AR lowers. The correct size for that is 1 3/16" x 16 TPI. You should also tap the grip screw hole. That is 1/4" x 28 TPI. You CAN simply thread the
grip screw into the plastic, but tapping is always preferred. All of these recommendations should apply to ANY printed lower, not just the BrickAR.