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The streamlight TLR-1 and TLR-1 HL do not come with a rail indexing key that fit my railed 4.25" 1911
(the included 1913 picatinny key makes the light sit too far back and would run into the trigger guard, so it is unmountable)
nor are any other keys available through streamlight, so of course i made my own, and figured that i should share it in case anyone else needed or wanted it.
I oriented it so that the round hole on the side of the key was facing up, so you will read "1911" starting at the build plate and going up.
My print/slicer settings:
Overture PLA+
0.1mm layers
100% infill
supports touching build plate (there should just be two spots, and they were easy to remove)
My Temp settings: (whatever you normally use for PLA+ or your filament of choice should be good)
220deg C extruder
65deg C bed (i have a fulament aluminum bed and flex plate)
(i havent test fired this yet, but if i can edit this, i will post updates on round counts)
If your light goes flying off your gun and breaks, that's on you
LBRY Tags: tlr1; streamlight; 1911; guns; 3d printing
(the included 1913 picatinny key makes the light sit too far back and would run into the trigger guard, so it is unmountable)
nor are any other keys available through streamlight, so of course i made my own, and figured that i should share it in case anyone else needed or wanted it.
I oriented it so that the round hole on the side of the key was facing up, so you will read "1911" starting at the build plate and going up.
My print/slicer settings:
Overture PLA+
0.1mm layers
100% infill
supports touching build plate (there should just be two spots, and they were easy to remove)
My Temp settings: (whatever you normally use for PLA+ or your filament of choice should be good)
220deg C extruder
65deg C bed (i have a fulament aluminum bed and flex plate)
(i havent test fired this yet, but if i can edit this, i will post updates on round counts)
If your light goes flying off your gun and breaks, that's on you
LBRY Tags: tlr1; streamlight; 1911; guns; 3d printing