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This is a model of the M18A1 claymore antipersonnel mine. The model is hollow inside, features a main body, rear lid, and sight assembly with fuse wells.
Assemble the main body by solder iron welding or gluing the sight assembly and fuse well in place. Then finish the mount by screwing the legs into place with 4x M5 bolts (15mm length) or 10-32 bolts, using nylon locking nuts so that they can be installed loosely enough for them to rotate, but not loosen over time. Install the rear lid by solder iron welding or epoxy. Screw the blasting cap holders into place in the fuse wells. Optionally, heat and bend the legs at the base to space them slightly further apart.
This model also has an optional rear cover to create the M33 training device. An M33 is made by using a mold of a real claymore mine, with the raised M18 text ground off, then painted blue on the back and engraved M33.
This model can be made as a functional destructive device with the proper explosive compound and projectile filler. The claymore itself is merely a case for the actual destructive device, which is the matrix of metal 1/8" ball bearings epoxied into the front.
There is no detonator or detection of any kind built into the claymore. The claymore is command detonated by inserting a blasting cap into the fuse wells.
I recommend leaving all dummy claymore mines hollow and not adding any sand or weight filler, nor leaving them unattended.
This is a perfect 1:1 scale replica of a claymore and it can and will cause a bomb scare if handled improperly.
Below are a list of items previously causing bomb scares that I find hilarious:
-a pipe nipple that fell off my friends work truck
-a roughly 4" round rock somebody spraypainted blue
-a neon sign depicting the Mooninites, characters from the Adult Swim animated television series Aqua Teen Hunger Force
-a cardboard box containing an inebriated raccoon that was left in my school as a prank
-a double sided marital aid that was taped to a lamp post in my town
LBRY Tags: m18a1; claymore; mine; m18; stubbs
Assemble the main body by solder iron welding or gluing the sight assembly and fuse well in place. Then finish the mount by screwing the legs into place with 4x M5 bolts (15mm length) or 10-32 bolts, using nylon locking nuts so that they can be installed loosely enough for them to rotate, but not loosen over time. Install the rear lid by solder iron welding or epoxy. Screw the blasting cap holders into place in the fuse wells. Optionally, heat and bend the legs at the base to space them slightly further apart.
This model also has an optional rear cover to create the M33 training device. An M33 is made by using a mold of a real claymore mine, with the raised M18 text ground off, then painted blue on the back and engraved M33.
This model can be made as a functional destructive device with the proper explosive compound and projectile filler. The claymore itself is merely a case for the actual destructive device, which is the matrix of metal 1/8" ball bearings epoxied into the front.
There is no detonator or detection of any kind built into the claymore. The claymore is command detonated by inserting a blasting cap into the fuse wells.
I recommend leaving all dummy claymore mines hollow and not adding any sand or weight filler, nor leaving them unattended.
This is a perfect 1:1 scale replica of a claymore and it can and will cause a bomb scare if handled improperly.
Below are a list of items previously causing bomb scares that I find hilarious:
-a pipe nipple that fell off my friends work truck
-a roughly 4" round rock somebody spraypainted blue
-a neon sign depicting the Mooninites, characters from the Adult Swim animated television series Aqua Teen Hunger Force
-a cardboard box containing an inebriated raccoon that was left in my school as a prank
-a double sided marital aid that was taped to a lamp post in my town
LBRY Tags: m18a1; claymore; mine; m18; stubbs